A short while ago, Nick Draper and I wandered up to the Albert Premier hut with the intention of going up the Chardonnet. We were intending to do the Goulotte Aureille Feutren, a long walk followed by a pitch or two of mixed, then two pitches of 4+ ice, then a snowy plod up to the top, but it was pissing spindrift constantly as though someone had turned a tap on, so we rummaged around a bit further to the right and did some sort of melange of the Debruyne-Manu and Gabbarou 79 instead.
Despite having to take the high road (towards the Col Sup du Tour) instead of the direct route across the glacier because of gaping crevasses, and breaking trail through fresh snow all the way up to the start of the route, we made the summit in good time, but a completely different set of gaping crevasses caught us out on the way down, and we were still trudging around in the snow when it got dark. Thankfully, we found our in-trail before we got too bored of it all, and we could follow our footsteps back to the Albert Prem.
There are all kinds of exciting words and pictures over at Nick’s story telling internet cave, so I don’t really feel the need to repeat much of what he’s already said. I did, however, make a short music-video-cum-documentary about the conditions and dance moves that were present on the Aiguille du Chardonnet around early-mid October, so I hope it’s helpful to some.